From behind the window of the bus we were
riding in, we could see a stunning view of the mountains. It was just the start
of summer, the green leaves and grass look young and fresh, spreading across
the mountains. The tour guide said that in autumn the view is even more
beautiful, the leaves turn red and turn golden yellow before they fall,
providing a stunning panorama along the way. We can only imagine it, from the
photos we have seen, with the dream of one day being able to enjoy the original
view in autumn. Of course, autumn is the busiest season, tourists, domestic and
foreign, plan their trips here well in advance.
We were on our way from Tokyo to the Nikko
mountains. Nikko is a historical place with beautiful views of the mountains
north of Tokyo. The existence of historical places located on the slopes of the
mountains, complemented by their rural charm, has inspired the saying:
"Never say kekko until you see Nikko", meaning that if you go to
Japan, never be satisfied until you see Nikko.
Our first stop was Toshugu Shrine. Tosho is the
honorary name given to Tokugawa Ieyasu after his death, because this shrine is
the burial place of Tokugawa Ieyasu. He was a Japanese samurai leader who led
and unified Japan in the 17th century. He founded the Tokugawa Shogunate which
ruled for more than 250 years, making him a prominent samurai figure in
Japanese history. Like other Japanese leaders, his spirit is considered sacred
and this shrine was built to house his spirit, according to Shinto beliefs. Therefore,
this temple is full of historical value and is very sacred because this temple
is the burial place and residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu's spirit.
From the entrance to the rear shrine, Toshogu
is connected by an uplhill street that is quite wide. At the end of the path,
there is a large Gate, called Torri (Ishidorii). The stone made Torri marks the
entrance to Toshogu Shrine, which according to Shinto beliefs represents the gate
to a holy place.
Usually, Shinto shrines are kept simple by
considering harmony with the natural surroundings, inviting visitors to offer
prayers and offerings at these shrines. Not so with Toshogu Shrine. This temple
is a combination of a Shinto Temple and a Buddhist Temple, giving this temple a
majestic dimension. Simplicity is not a consideration at all, the buildings are
instead rich with ornaments of various colors, including gold leaf decoration,
which can amaze visitors who observe them.
While wandering at
night in the Kabukicho, we saw a very unique restaurant. The name is Robot
Restaurant, which was hugely displayed at the top of the restaurant with
glittering light bulbs, so it could be seen from far. Anybody visiting this
area wouldn’t miss to notice this restaurant. We wondered what kind of
restaurant it was, were we going to be served by robots or something like that?
Actually, the place offered a spectacular Robot-themed cabaret show, and
calling it a restaurant was a bit misleading. It was more a show rather than a
restaurant. They did serve food there, but it was the kind of food to be eaten
while watching the show. The room arrangement was like an arena stage surrounded
by seats for the spectators, not like a normal dining tables arrangement in
restaurants.
The show was
astonishing, loud and full of energy from the beginning. Dancers, laser lights,
dazzling spot lights, mixed with dinosaurs and robots danced in rhythm with the
drum beats. It was spectacular. The movement seemed unchoreographed, but the
performance is actually a carefully planned routine that requires weeks of preparation.
The dancers must master everything from dancing to drumming, pole dancing and
robot riding for the performance. So did one of the dancers told us after the
show.
Though there seemed no
storyline in the 90 minutes show, it appeared to be a classic battle between robot
armies. The dancers ranged from the kawaii (cute) to the monstrous animals, the
goofy anime characters to the ancient Japanese fantasy characters. There was blaring
rock music in the room, with warrior princesses in bikinis fighting a 3 meter tall
transformer robots. They came to tease
you at every corner and in front of your seat. There were also a giant shark
attacking a robotic horse, a Kung-Fu panda wrestling on a Segway. They made us
smile.
For 90 minutes we
entered a different world, monsters and kawaii characters came in flesh, robot
toys became huge, it was a show as well as a wild party. It was one of the top tourist attractions in
Tokyo, located in the Shinjuku nightlife district. It earned a reputation not
long after it opened in 2012, but sadly it must close during the Covid 19 pandemic
and remained closed forever.
Wow,
I was lucky to meet Chairil at the Artic ice cream shop, in Kramat Raya,
Batavia. He was sitting in the corner at a rattan chair and table. As usual, he
was busy reading a book without paying attention to his surroundings. When I greeted
him, he lifted his head from the book and smiled kindly to me. He seemed to
remember his promise to give me an interview, but all this time it was very
difficult to meet him. Maybe he tried to avoid it because he actually doesn't
like the noise of publicity. So, I was lucky to cornered him here.
But
ouch, his face was crumpled, his eyes were red as if he hadn't slept. His face
was gloomy and tired.
"Last
night did you stay up late, Ril...?" I asked.
"Not
really... this is how I am..." he said absentmindedly, then glanced at the
entrance when the doorbell rang. Apparently an IndoDutch girl came in. This ice
cream shop is visited by many Indonesians, Dutch and IndoDutch teenagers, many
of whom have just come home from school. The atmosphere became lively. Apparently,
this is what this 'Wild Beast' (so he called himself in his famous poem) is
looking for, hanging out here while enjoying the view of many pure white,
blonde-haired girls.
There
was no ice cream on the table yet, so I offered: “Would you like some ice
cream… Ril? “
"Anything..."
he said.
"Okay...
I'll order mocha ice cream... the one with biscuits..." I spoke.
But
he didn't seem to care. He really doesn't care what he eats, he just smokes a
lot. His body was thin and looked neglected. His face was pale, with dark
circles around his eyes. His clothes were casual, his shirt was faded and his
trousers were shabby. Truly like “The Wild Beast, cast out from the herd.”
In
fact, as far as I know, his parents are well to do, his father is the regent of
Indragiri. And he was an only child, so you can imagine he was spoiled from
childhood. Everything is there and never lack of anything. I really want to ask
him about his family.
I
said: "I can ask you... Ril, your childhood must have been abundant and
enjoyable... right...?"
Chairil:
“Look
at the faded orange love:
And
I choose
the
view blurs, the surrounding leaves fall
the
house is hidden in tall shady cypresses
in
the glass window no shadow comes floating
Marbles,
spinning toy, wooden horses, little boats of
childhood,
Look
at the faded orange love:
If a
mirage typhoon comes,
rolling
the marbles, spinning toys
wooden
horses, blowing little boats
I
was already rigid.”
At the age of 19, after his parents'
divorce, Chairil and his mother moved to Batavia. He lived in the house of his
uncle, Sutan Sjahrir, Prime Minister of Indonesia. However, he is like someone
whose life is unusual, his clothes are shabby, he eats irregularly, he wanders
everywhere and often sleeps in his friends' rooms.
The waiter served two mocha ice creams at
our table. Chairil ignored it, he just stared, until the ice cream started to
melt.
I asked: “Do you have a nostalgia about
this shop… Ril…?”
Chairil:
“Between
happiness now and later an abyss opens,
My
little sister enjoys licking artic ice;
This
evening you are my love, I garnish with milk plus coca cola
My
wife in training: we stop the clock ticking.
You're
really good at kissing, I can feel the scratch remains
when
we cycle I bring you home
Your
blood is hot, you will quickly become a woman,
The
old man's dream is rising to the sky.
Your
choice every day picks up, every time
changed;
Tomorrow
we'll cross paths, we don't know who each other:
Heaven
is just a short game.
I am
like you, everything passes quickly
I
and Tuti plus Greet plus Amoi heartbroken,
Love
is a danger that quickly fades”
Some time ago, after Indonesia proclaimed
independence, the Dutch carried out military aggression to regain control of
Indonesian territories. Together with the Allied troops they succeeded in
controlling the West Java region. When the Dutch army invaded Bekasi, thousands
of people fled towards Karawang. Fighting then broke out in the area between
Karawang and Bekasi. As a result, many of the Indonesian Republic Army (TRI)
chose to retreat to the countryside and join with local people to build
defenses against Dutch attacks. Several TRI troops were headquartered in
Rawagede village and led by Captain Lukas Kustarjo. Unfortunately, the
fighter's headquarters in Rawagede village was discovered by Dutch henchmen.
Without thinking further, the Dutch
military immediately prepared a plan for a sudden attack on Captain Lukas and
his soldiers. The Dutch tried to find Captain Lukas, but they were unable to
catch him. The Dutch then gathered male residents aged around 14 years in the
field. One by one they were asked about Captain Lukas' whereabouts, but none of
them knew. Their answer certainly did not make the Dutch immediately believe
it. The young men were then ordered to squat with their backs to the Dutch
soldiers with their hands placed above their heads. In an instant, bodies began
to fall after being executed by the Dutch.
I asked him: "You wrote a poem to
commemorate these teen youths who were recently killed by the Dutch between
Karawang and Bekasi, can you tell us about the memory..."
Chairil:
“We who are now lying between
Karawang-Bekasi
cannot shout "Freedom" and take
up arms again.
But who no longer hears our roar,
imagine us moving forward and beating heart?
We talk to you in silence on a lonely night
If your chest feels empty and the wall
clock is ticking
We die young. What remained were bones
covered in dust.
Remember, remember us.
We've tried what we can
But the work is not done, we cannot comprehend
the meaning of 4-5 thousand lives
We are just scattered bones
But they are yours
You are again who determine the value of
the scattered bones
Or our souls soar for freedom, victory and
hope
or not for nothing,
We do not know, we can no longer say
You are the one now saying
We talk to you in silence on a lonely night
If your chest feels empty and the wall
clock is ticking
Remember, remember us
Keep going, keep our souls going
Guarding Bung Karno
look after Bung Hatta
look after Bung Sjahrir
We are now corpses
Give us meaning
Always stay on the line between statements
and dreams
Remember, remember us.
all that remains is bones covered in dust
Thousands of us lay between
Karawang-Bekasi.”
THE END
This is imaginary interview in memory of
Chairil Anwar
It was winter when I
walked from the Shinjuku Metro station to the Shinjuku Gyeon National Garden. Of
course many people would prefer to visit this garden in Spring to see the Sakura
blossoming, or to see the colors in autumns, however in winter the garden has
its own colors. Not the white color of snow, but the colors of the plants
subdued by the cold winter. A range of green colors not as green in summer
mixed with the remaining color of maple trees.
Shinjuku Gyoen, located
a few hundred meters away from Shinjuku’s heart-beat, is a combination of
Western style garden, which are French garden and English garden, with Japanese
traditional garden. The beauty of Japanese style garden lies in its
asymmetrical beauty, unlike the symmetrical beauty of Western style garden.
Other than that, almost all elements in a Japanese garden indicate a symbolism
deeply rooted in Shinto, which considered the close bond between nature, human
and deities. The word Shinto itself means “the way of Kami (deities)”. Kami
live in the same world as human beings, in the nature. Therefore, nature as the
home of the Kami, is sacred and worshiped with awe. Shinto regards every
element of nature as divine, and that the Kami are present everywhere.
Shinjuku Gyoen was
constructed on the site of a private mansion belonging to Lord Naito, a feudal
lord of the Edo era in 16th century. Later it was converted into a
botanical garden before converted into an Imperial Garden of the Emperor Meiji
in 1906. After the Second World War it was designated as a national garden and
opened to the public. This park features large ponds with islands and bridges,
in Japanese style garden. About 10,000 trees grow in this park, tulip trees,
cedars, cypresses, which give the garden a solemn atmosphere. However, the
skyscrapers in the background awaken us that this place is in modern Tokyo.
Makoto Shinkai's 2013
anime movie, The Garden of Words, is set in Shinjuku Gyoen. The movie is about
a 15 year old high school boy and a 27 year old woman meeting consistently on a
rainy day in the park. The reason Shinkai made this movie had to do with the
East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami of 2011, that made him question the scenery
that we see everyday with the knowledge that it could someday turn into nothing
and might be lost in one day because of disaster like that. He wanted the keep
all the scenery that he personally love and what people might relate to into
the anime.
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