Arriving Dubai at six in the morning, while it was still cool, at the world
class airport, made us feel like arriving in a modern oasis in the desert. The dusts
of sand were not visible, no one seemed to be sweating, and the fragrance of
perfume from the local people dressed in their traditional robes filled the air,
it smells like the smoke of incense.
Upon leaving the airport, I realized that the airport is practically
inside the city, cars started filling the roads rapidly as people trying to
avoid the traffic jams which would come in a few more hours, with the heat of
the day.
Soon I can see why Dubai is called the business hub of the Middle East,
the Hong Kong of the Middle East. Oil revenue helped accelerate the development
of the city, which was already a major mercantile hub, but Dubai's oil reserves
are limited and production levels are low: today, less than 5% of the emirate's
revenue comes from oil. Dubai's economy today relies on revenues from trade, tourism,
aviation, real estate, and financial services. The most extravagant hotels,
restaurants, attractions parks and beach resorts all made for us to enjoy the
best this life has to offer.
One of the most sought-after leisure and shopping destinations is the
Dubai Mall which attracted lavish shoppers from all corners of the world. Featuring
over 1,200 retail stores, including retailers such as Bloomingdale and Galeries
Lafayette, and hundreds of food and beverage outlets, the Dubai Mall covers
more than 1 million sqm. It is the world's second-largest mall, a gargantuan
complex with an aquarium, a virtual-reality theme park, an Olympic-size
ice-skating rink, Gold Souk (Market) and hundreds of high-class boutiques and restaurants.
The Dubai Mall is structured like a city, with internal pedestrian
streets, junctions and landmarks, integrated into the design and organized by
wide, straight boulevards terminating at beautifully decorated junctions
connecting the many shops. You can walk in the cool climate from Sega to
Kidzania to the cinema, from Versace to Gucci at the Fashion Avenue to the
electronic shops and drink, eat at the many restaurants and cafés in between. After
tired of shopping and stuffed with food you can go watch the movies at the
comfortable cinemas. It really feels like walking in a city in an oasis in the
middle of desert, where you see nobody is thirsty or sweating despite the
soaring heat of above 40 deg C outside the mall.
The famous French writer Emile Zola
first visited Lourdes in September 1891 and was taken aback by the number of
pilgrims that visited the shrine of Santa Maria. He returned the following year
during August, which is the busiest period for pilgrimages, and spent time with
the pilgrims, carrying out interviews and observations to form the basis of his
novel, ‘Lourdes’ which was published in 1894.
During his visit Zola watched the Ave
Maria evening procession and described it in his novel:
”Thirty thousand candle lights were
burning there, still and ever revolving, quickening their sparkles under the
vast calm heavens where the planets had grown pale. A luminous glow ascended in
company with the strains of the hymn which never ceased. And the roar of voices
incessantly repeating the refrain of 'Ave, Ave, Ave Maria' was like the very
crackling of those hearts of fire which were burning away in prayers in order
that souls might be saved. “
Every day from April to October at 5pm
the Lourdes pilgrims respond to the request of Santa Maria by gathering for the
Eucharist Procession. The procession begins at the open-air altar on the
prairie across the river from the grotto and is led by sick pilgrims followed
by a priest, bishop or cardinal carrying a the Holy Eucharist.
Then at 9PM the pilgrims from all over
the world gather for the procession of Ave Maria of Lourdes. The procession
begins near the Grotto and continues around the esplanade ending in the Rosary
square. The procession is led by sick pilgrims followed by volunteers carrying
a replica of the statue of Santa Maria. The focus of this candle lit procession
is the rosary. All five decades are recited, usually in a variety of languages.
The Lourdes Hymn is also sung, with verses in different languages.
Intercessions may be invoked followed by the Laudate Mariam.
In the serenity of the evening, each
pilgrim carries his or her own personal intentions as the Ave Maria song was
repeated over and over during the procession lit by thousands of candle lights.
As Emile Zola wrote in the novel: “The roar of voices incessantly repeating the
refrain of 'Ave, Ave, Ave Maria’, penetrates one's very skin. It seems to me as
though my whole body were at last singing it.”
Lourdes is a small market town lying in
the foothills of the Pyrenees in France. It lies at an elevation of 420 m and
in a central position through which runs the fast-flowing river Gave de Pau. Every
year, Lourdes is visited by millions of pilgrims, they come to see the site of
a famous vision experienced by a young girl called Bernadette Soubirous.
Pilgrims may visit to be cleansed of
their sins and to be cured of their illnesses. It is believed that spring water
from the grotto can heal people if they are sick. Millions of visitors come to
Lourdes each year in the hope of being cured. The one of the reasons for pilgrims
to go to Lourdes, is to bathe in the spring water, to be fully immersed into
the bath and drink the water for cleansing and healing. The bath is a symbol of
baptism and also strengthening the faith of the pilgrims.
The history began on 11thFebruary 1858, as Bernadette
Soubirous, a 14-year-old local girl, went out with her sister Toinette,
and a friend Jeanne, to fetch firewood near the local grotto.Suddenly, a lady appeared to her in a
brilliant white dress tied with a blue ribbon; her body was covered with a long
white veil that fell to her feet. This lady later identified herself as
"the Immaculate Conception" which is an
attribute of Santa Maria.
Santa Maria then appeared 18 times to
Bernadette, and on 25th February She asked the girl to dig up a
spring of water where none had been found before. Santa Maria told her “Go and
drink at the Spring and wash yourself there”. Even though this area was muddy, the next day,
the ground flowed with clear water. Almost immediately cures were reported from
drinking the water, and since then many people were cured by applying or
drinking the water. The Spring water of Lourdes became popular because of the
miracles associated with it.
What is particularly striking to the
casual visitor is the number of sick and disabled people present in Lourdes.
All those traumatised by life may find a certain degree of comfort in Lourdes.
Officially, 80,000 sick and disabled people from many countries come to Lourdes
each year. Despite their wounds or disabilities, they feel they are in a haven
of peace and joy.
I was lucky to be granted an interview by Giuseppe, as he was
known as an intensely private man, who regards journalists, biographers, as
well as his neighbors in Busseto, as intrusive people, against whose prying
attentions he needed to protect himself.So I guessed that I got the interview because he considered me as a not
so well-known journalist, not a nosy and gossipy type, therefore I could not do
any harms. But still I thought that in any case I must be careful not to ask too
deep questions about his personal affairs.
So following the appointment, I met him after the opera performance
of Un ballo in maschera (A Masked Ball) at the Bolshoi theatre in Moscow. We sat in a café near the Karl Marx square
during a chilly night in April.
I opened the conversation:
“ I am bewildered that you would come to Moscow to watch one
of your opera, what makes you come here you of the blue?”
Giuseppe:
“The Bolshoi theatre in Moscow has a long history of hosting
many historic opera premier. Sadly a massive fire broke out in 1853 and ruined
the building completely, the theatre had to be closed for a three-year-long
overhaul, and opened its doors after renovation right in time for the
coronation of Tsar Alexander II.Then it
was hit by a bomb in 1941, and got renovated several times because of various
damages and the final reconstruction lasted for six years and in 2011 the
refurbished theatre opened its doors once again. So I am glad to be here to
witness the new Bolshoi hosting Un Ballo in Maschera.”
I said:
“I found that Alessandra Premoliand Davide Livermoredirected the opera performance very
well,with impressive digitally enhanced
stage set by Gio Forma and video design by D-wok.
There were the flying and preying crows in the digital
background of the stage dominated in black and white, haunting the people with
the ominous fortune foretold by the witch Ulrica.
The performance tonight exposed me to a new experience. It
makes opera more attractive, may bring younger audiences, gives wider
alternatives to creative artists and technicians, and will probably take costs
down.”
Giuseppe:
“I can only ask for more. It can be really beautiful, but
equally it can detract. It comes down to what the production is really. It
would certainly be appropriate for some but overall I definitely prefer
traditional opera. However some modern productions may benefit from this. Surely
no one could say it should always, or never, be used.”
I said:
“ You are known of your greatness,to find a way of speaking to limitless
crowds, and your method to adsorb yourself completely into your characters. You
never composed music for music’s sake, every music note has a precise dramatic implication.
The most astounding scenes in your work are those in which all the voices come
together in a visceral mass, like the voices at the end of “Un Ballo”, overcome
by the spiritual greatness of a dying man.”
Giuseppe:
“The scene is about the dying Riccardo as he admits to Renato
: ‘You must listen to me, she is pure: in the arms of death, while God hears my
words, I swear it (Ella è pura: in braccio a morte Te lo giuro, Iddio m’ascolta)’.
The dying Riccardo confirms that, although he was in love with Amelia, Renato’s
wife, she never broke her marriage vows. Then he shows Renato the order for the
couple’s repatriation to England, a gesture to show that he forgives Renato and
the conspirators. The crowd bewails the loss of their generous-hearted governor
as Renato is consumed by remorse.”
I said:
“One of your most
successful opera is La Traviata, which means “the fallen woman” or “the one who
goes astray” and in context it connotes the loss of sexual innocence. It represents the thinking of a time when
sexual activity outside of marriage was considered immoral and unmarried
couples living together were the subject of scandal.
That time in Paris in the world of the rich and powerful, social conventions bound everyone to a
righteous lifestyle on the surface, but beneath that existed another world
where the nobility could enjoy the excess of their wealth including the company
of women, the courtesan who were expected to entertain him, and also go to the
theater and opera with him.”
Giuseppe:
“ The story of this opera is “a subject for our time.” I was
determined to use the opera to arouse sympathy for society’s outcasts, the sort
of people we might go out of our way to avoid on the streets. Like Alexandre
Dumas “The Lady of the Camellias” upon which novel and play the opera is based,
I wanted to protest the exploitation of women, and I gave the opera a
contemporary setting.”
I said:
“Indeed in La Traviata you not only put a cry story on
stage, you set it all to contemporary music : the waltzes and polkas were that
time the sounds that accompanied the libidinous pleasures of booze and
sensuality. The most famous of those is the Brindisi drinking song in the first
act, Alfredo’s waltzing “Libiamo” – “let’s get drunk”, basically. It is a
famous duet with chorus, one of the best-known opera melodies and a popular
performance choice for many great tenors.
Giuseppe, imitating Alfredo in Brindisi, the drinking song :
“Libiamo, libiamo ne’lieti calici Let us drink from the goblets
of joy
che la belleza infiora.adorned
with beauty,
E la fuggevol ora s’inebrii and the fleeting
hour shall be adorned
a
voluttà.with
pleasure.”
I said:
“It required a strong character to live the life that you
live; to preserve at your golden years that freshness of interest, that
intensity of purpose. To produce an opera means to negotiate with an
impresario, secure and edit a libretto, find or approve the singers, compose
the music, supervise rehearsals, conduct some of the performances, deal with
publishers, and more.What drives you to
be so passionate to produce operas?”
Giuseppe:
“The explanation may be partly found in my humble origin, my
simple upbringing. My father kept a little inn and grocery shop in the village
of Roncole. He was not rich, but prosperous enough to be able to give his son a
thorough musical education. My father arranged music lessons before I was four.
When only eleven, I succeeded my teacher in the post, at a salary of thirty-six
francs a year! I had a hundred francs when I left six years later, but I was
then walking every Sunday and festival day from Busseto, three miles distant,
for my general education.”
I said:
“At Busseto there lived a musical amateur, named Barezzi. He
took you, opened his home to you in his warehouse, and allowed you the treat of
practicing on a piano. Barezzi had a
daughter who also played piano. The usual results of this situation you fell in
love with each other, and were married in 1835.”
Giuseppe:
“I was so poor at this time that he had to pawn my wife’s
trinkets for the rent. Margherita gave
birth to two children, Virginia and Icilio. Both died in infancy while I was
working on my first opera Oberto at the age of 26. Premiered at Milan’s La
Scala in November 1839, Oberto enjoyed a fair success and the theatre's
impresario Bartolomeo Merelli was impressed enough to offer me a contract that
would guarantee two more works. “
I said:
“You live a life with more moments of tragedy than most of
us could take. As a young man you lost both of your children in infancy, and
your wife Margherita died soon after in 1840 because of encephalitis. That happened when you had just accepted an
engagement to write a comic opera, Un giorno di regno(King fo a Day) and you went on with it while
your heart was breaking. It was a failure and we can hardly wonder that the
opera was a failure.
With your personal life shattered and your professional life
disrupted by grief, you have been drawn sitting moody and silent for a whole
year and more, writing nothing, seeing nobody, as if declaring that life was
not worth living.”
Giuseppe:
“I was alone! Irredeemably alone! …My family had been wiped
out!... And to keep the commitment I’d made, at that very painful moment in my
life, I had to write Un giorno di regno which
was not liked….. Tormented by my family woes, which the failure of my work only
exacerbated, I was convinced that art would never bring me solace, and I
decided to stop writing music!....”
I said:
“Then in a dreary winter’s day in 1841 after a chance
meeting with Bartolomeo Merelli, La Scala's impresario, he gave you a copy of
Temistocle Solera's libretto for Nabucco. “
Giuseppe:
“I took it home, and threw it on the table with an almost
violent gesture. ... In falling, it had opened of itself; without my realising
it, my eyes clung to the open page and to one special line: 'Va pensiero, sull'
ali dorate' meaning ‘Go, thought, on golden wings’.
I ran through the verses that followed and was much moved,
all the more because they were almost a paraphrase from the Bible, the reading
of which always had delighted me.I read
it enthusiastically one passage after another. Then, resolute in my
determination to write no more, I forced myself to close the manuscript and
went to bed. But it was no use- I couldn’t get Nabucco out of my head. Unable
to sleep, I got up and read the libretto, not once, but two or three times, so
that by the morning, I know Solera’s libretto almost by heart. Nevertheless, I
still refused to compose the music, taking the manuscript back to the impresario
next day. But Merelli would accept no refusal and he immediately stuffed the
papers back into my pocket and, not only threw me out of his office, but
slammed the door in my face and locked himself in.
Then gradually I worked on the music, this verse today,
tomorrow that, here a note, there a whole phrase, and little by little the
opera was written, so that by the autumn of 1841 it was complete. “
I said:
"Then needless to say what happened next , Nabucco premier at La
Scala on the evening of 9 March 1842 was a huge success, and this work became
your first immortal creation. For you it was a turn from despair to “Viva Verdi,
Viva Verdi……”
Like the wording in 'Va pensiero, sull' ali dorate', which
was inspired by Psalm 137:
‘or let the Lord inspire a concert
That may give to endure our suffering’
THE END
This is an imaginary
interview in memory of Giuseppe Verdi
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